Food security – an industry fuelled by massive material resources and expert knowledge aimed ostensibly at managing the world’s food crisis – has shaped how we think about food. Driven by development discourse, and fed by a global food regime wherein the very systems meant to feed us, starve us, its focus, especially when it comes to Africa, is large on deprivation, suffering and oppression. Considering food, cooking and eating are often profoundly creative and pleasurable, the anxiety, despair and sense of victimisation around food is astonishing. All too often what’s missing is the food itself – its complex histories and politics, the science and art of it, as well as its pleasures.
In this edition of the Chronic we put food back on the table. How do we write ourselves and our lives through food, beyond ideas of scarcity and ‘food security’?